Hummingbirds in Oregon: Anna’s, Rufous, Feeders, and Native Plants
Oregon is prime hummingbird country, with Anna’s, Rufous, Calliope, and Black‑chinned Hummingbirds occurring regularly in different parts of the state. Along much of the west side, Anna’s Hummingbirds now live year‑round, while Rufous, Calliope, and Black‑chinned migrate in and out with the seasons.
Key takeaways for Oregon hummingbirds
Anna’s Hummingbirds now live year‑round in much of western Oregon, while Rufous, Calliope, and Black‑chinned Hummingbirds occur mainly as spring and summer migrants and breeders across different parts of the state. Rufous Hummingbirds often reach coastal and Willamette Valley yards by late February or early March, with Calliope and Black‑chinned arriving mainly in April and May in eastern and higher‑elevation areas, and most migratory hummingbirds leaving by August or September while Anna’s remain through winter in many west‑side gardens.
In western Oregon, you can keep at least one feeder up all year to support resident Anna’s and early Rufous migrants, while in more seasonal interior and high‑elevation areas it works well to put feeders out by March or early April and take them down in late September or October after several weeks with no hummingbirds. Use a simple 4‑to‑1 sugar‑water mix with no red dye, change nectar every 1–2 days in warm weather or every 3–5 days in cooler spells, and pair feeders with native plants like red‑flowering currant, Oregon grape, western columbine, native honeysuckles, penstemons, and bleeding heart to attract hummingbirds in Oregon’s coastal, valley, and mountain yards.
Oregon hummingbird basics
The Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife lists four main hummingbird species for the state: Anna’s, Rufous, Calliope, and Black‑chinned Hummingbirds. Anna’s are concentrated west of the Cascades but are spreading inland; Rufous occur across much of the state as migrants and breeders; Calliope and Black‑chinned are more strongly associated with eastern and southern Oregon’s canyons and foothills.
In western Oregon, Anna’s may nest as early as February and can be seen in all seasons at flowers and feeders. Rufous Hummingbirds arrive very early on their way north—often reaching coastal and valley sites by late February or March—then continue into eastern Oregon as spring advances. By midsummer, juveniles and adults move through again on their way south, creating a strong late‑season pulse at feeders.
What hummingbirds do you get in Oregon?
For backyard birders in Oregon, the most commonly encountered hummingbirds are Anna’s and Rufous, with Calliope and Black‑chinned more localized but still regular in appropriate habitats.
Anna’s Hummingbird – A green‑backed hummingbird with a rosy‑red head and throat on males, and green with grayish underparts on females. In much of western Oregon, Anna’s are now permanent

residents, frequenting gardens, parks, and feeders throughout the year.
Rufous Hummingbird – A small, feisty hummingbird; males are rich rufous with an orange‑red throat, females greenish above with rufous in the tail. Rufous are long‑distance migrants that pass

through Oregon in late winter and spring, breed in forest edges and clearings, and then move north and later south along the coast and mountains.
Calliope Hummingbird – North America’s smallest bird, with tiny size and a streaked magenta throat on males. In Oregon, Calliope is mostly a breeder in higher‑elevation and interior mountain areas, using

open conifer forests, meadows, and shrubby slopes.
Black‑chinned Hummingbird – A slim hummingbird with a dark head and narrow purple band on the throat of males, using a wide variety of habitats. In Oregon it is rare to locally common, mainly east of the

Cascades in canyons, river bottoms, juniper woodlands, and towns.
Other species may appear as rare vagrants, but these four are the main hummingbirds Oregon birders can expect at feeders and flowers.
Summary for Oregon:
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Common, regular: Anna’s (west), Rufous (statewide migrant/breeder).
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Regular but more localized: Calliope and Black‑chinned (mainly eastern/southern Oregon).
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Very rare: Additional western species occasionally recorded but not expected in a typical yard.
When do hummingbirds arrive and leave Oregon?
Because Oregon straddles coastal, valley, and mountain climates, hummingbird timing differs between regions. In much of western Oregon, Anna’s Hummingbirds are present year‑round and may begin nesting by late winter. Rufous Hummingbirds are early migrants that often reach the Oregon coast and Willamette Valley by late February or early March, with numbers increasing in March and April.
In eastern and higher‑elevation parts of Oregon, hummingbird arrivals are later, typically from April into May as snow melts and flowers appear. Calliope and Black‑chinned Hummingbirds arrive in spring and depart by late summer, with most birds gone from mountain and interior breeding areas by September.
First arrivals (typical patterns):
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West‑side Anna’s: present all year; breeding begins as early as February in some areas.
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Rufous: often reach western Oregon by late February or early March, spreading through the state in March–April.
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Calliope and Black‑chinned: mainly arrive April–May in eastern and southern Oregon, tied to mountain and canyon bloom.
Peak season:
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Western yards: spring through late summer (March–August), with Anna’s present all year and Rufous, Calliope, and Black‑chinned adding numbers seasonally.
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Eastern and mountain areas: roughly May through August, matching the short growing season.
Most leave:
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Rufous, Calliope, Black‑chinned: generally August–September, heading south or, for Rufous, down the Pacific flyway.
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Anna’s: remain in western Oregon through fall and winter, moving locally to track food and shelter.
When to put up and take down feeders in Oregon
When to put feeders out
On the west side (coast, Willamette Valley, southwest Oregon), hummingbirds may be present year‑round, so you can keep at least one feeder up all year if you can maintain fresh nectar. This provides winter support for Anna’s and ensures food is ready when early Rufous migrants arrive in late February or March.
In colder or more seasonal parts of Oregon—higher elevations, interior valleys, and much of eastern Oregon—general feeder guidance suggests putting feeders out by March or early April, timed to when local hummingbirds return and flowers begin to bloom. If you watch migration maps or local reports, you can fine‑tune by getting feeders up just before the first expected arrivals in your area.
Summary:
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Western Oregon: keep at least one feeder up year‑round if you can keep nectar from freezing or spoiling.
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Eastern/higher‑elevation Oregon: have feeders up by March–early April, or shortly before your local first‑arrival dates.
When to take feeders down
Where Anna’s Hummingbirds overwinter, experts generally advise that you do not need to take feeders down at all, as long as you can keep nectar unfrozen and clean; the birds rely on these supplemental food sources in cold snaps. In strictly seasonal areas where no hummingbirds remain after fall migration, you can take feeders down after several weeks with no sightings, often in late September or October.
Leaving a feeder up a bit longer does not stop hummingbirds from migrating; they move based on day length and internal cues, not the presence of feeders. In very cold areas, the limiting factor is more about preventing freezing and maintaining safe nectar than about migration timing.
Summary:
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West‑side with Anna’s: feeders can stay up year‑round; manage freezing and freshness.
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Seasonal interior sites: it is safe to remove feeders after a couple of weeks with no hummingbirds in late September or October.
Best hummingbird nectar recipe
For Oregon, the recommended nectar recipe is the same simple mix used everywhere else: 1 part plain white sugar to 4 parts water. Briefly boil the water, stir in the sugar until it fully dissolves, allow the nectar to cool, then fill clean feeders. Do not add red dye, honey, brown sugar, or artificial sweeteners; dyes and alternative sugars can cause problems and are not needed because the red on the feeder attracts hummingbirds.
In cooler coastal winters and hot summer spells, this same recipe works well; you only adjust how often you change the nectar, not the sugar ratio. Thickening the nectar beyond 4‑to‑1 is not recommended, because birds rely on a balance of sugar and water and also need to drink from natural sources.
All about nectar: how to use it effectively
In western Oregon, where Anna’s can visit feeders in every season, smaller feeders and frequent changes are key to keeping nectar safe. Use 8–12 oz feeders so you are not tempted to leave nectar in too long, and adjust how much you fill them based on how many birds are visiting.
During peak spring and summer activity, you can add additional feeders or fill them more fully to handle the rush of Rufous, Calliope, and Black‑chinned hummingbirds. As numbers drop in fall and winter, scale back to one or two smaller feeders near shelter so you can keep nectar from freezing and change it often. Your main nectar article can give Oregon readers detailed guidance on batch sizes, storage, and cleaning schedules by temperature so they never have to guess.
A clean hummingbird feeder is a must
Oregon’s climate ranges from cool, wet winters to warm, dry summers, and both mold and fermentation can be issues if feeders are not cleaned regularly. Each time you change nectar, rinse the feeder with hot water and scrub ports, seams, and any corners with a small brush. Avoid strong scented soaps and always rinse thoroughly if you use soap at all.
At least once a month in mild weather—and more often in hot spells—sanitize feeders by soaking in a vinegar solution (for example 1 part white vinegar to 2 parts water) or a diluted bleach solution (about 1 part household bleach to 10 parts water), followed by a very thorough rinse and complete air‑drying. Your feeder‑cleaning guide can show Oregon readers how to adapt these routines for rainy winters on the coast versus hot interior summers.
Where to hang feeders in Oregon yards
Oregon yards range from shady woodland gardens west of the Cascades to sunny high‑desert lots in the interior, but placement basics stay the same. Hang feeders near shrubs, trees, or tall perennials so hummingbirds have perches and quick cover, and place them about 4–5 feet above ground for both bird safety and easy maintenance.
Keep feeders several feet from large windows or add decals or screens to reduce collision risk. In hot, exposed east‑side yards, choose spots with some midday shade so nectar does not spoil as quickly, while in wet coastal climates you may want locations with good air circulation to discourage mold. Where wind is a factor, use sheltered spots by structures, fences, or hedges so feeders do not swing excessively.
To reduce fighting among hummingbirds:
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Use two or more small feeders rather than one big one.
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Place feeders 10–15 feet apart or around corners so a territorial male can’t guard them all at once.
Learn how hummingbird aggression impacts your backyard. This video explores territorial behavior and offers practical solutions for attracting more hummingbirds to your feeders. Discover several helpful strategies to encourage a more harmonious environment.
I also wrote a more in‑depth guide on how to choose the best place to hang your hummingbird feeder.Discover exactly where to hang your hummingbird feeder for the best results. This complete guide walks you through sunlight and shade, height, distance from windows, wind and predator protection, and how close to place feeders to flowers so hummingbirds feel safe and visit often. You’ll also get practical tips on window feeders, hanging hardware, cleaning schedules by temperature, and simple tricks to stop ants and other pests.Check out the article for everything you need to turn one well‑placed feeder into a busy hummingbird hot spot.
Native plants that attract hummingbirds in Oregon
Pacific Northwest native plants are some of the best tools for attracting hummingbirds in Oregon because they evolved with local hummingbird species and climates. Hummingbirds especially favor tubular, nectar‑rich flowers in red, orange, and bright pink, but they will use a wide range of colors as long as the nectar supply is good.
Bird Alliance of Oregon, Portland Nursery, and other regional experts highlight these natives for hummingbirds:
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Red‑flowering currant (Ribes sanguineum) – A classic early spring shrub with pendant clusters of pink to red flowers that Anna’s and Rufous eagerly visit as they return and begin nesting.
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Oregon grape (Mahonia aquifolium and relatives) – Evergreen shrubs with yellow winter‑to‑spring blooms that provide early nectar in woodland and shady gardens.
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Western columbine (Aquilegia formosa) – Nodding red‑and‑yellow flowers that bloom in late spring and early summer, excellent in mixed borders and woodland edges.
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Orange honeysuckle (Lonicera ciliosa) and other native honeysuckles – Climbing vines with clusters of tubular orange flowers ideal for trellises, fences, and shrubs.
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Penstemons (Penstemon spp.) – Sun‑loving perennials with colorful tubular spikes in pinks, reds, and purples that handle dry slopes and borders well.
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Bleeding heart (Dicentra formosa) – Early‑blooming woodland perennial that hummingbirds use in shaded and woodland gardens.
For the best results do this:
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Plant in groups or drifts so hummingbirds can feed at many blooms in one stop.
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Combine early, mid‑season, and late‑blooming plants to ensure nectar from late winter or early spring through fall.
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Use regional native‑plant tools such as Audubon’s database or local nursery lists, filtered for your Oregon ZIP code and site conditions.
Creating a hummingbird‑friendly yard in Oregon
To turn an Oregon yard into hummingbird habitat, think in layers: trees for structure, shrubs for cover and blossoms, and perennials and vines for nectar at eye level. Combine native plants with a few reliable non‑natives if you wish, and tie everything together with clean feeders and water features.
Layered planting example for an Oregon yard
In a west‑side yard with partial sun, you might start with a small native tree or large shrub—such as vine maple, serviceberry, or tall Oregon grape—at the back of a bed. In front of that, plant red‑flowering currant and orange honeysuckle for early to mid‑season blooms, then mix in penstemons and western columbine for color from late spring into summer.
Under and around these, add bleeding heart, native ferns, and shade‑tolerant groundcovers so hummingbirds have flowers, cover, and perches at multiple heights. This layered structure works well in many Oregon gardens and can be adapted to drier east‑side conditions by shifting toward drought‑tolerant natives and more sun‑loving shrubs and perennials.
For the best results do this:
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Group plants by light and moisture (sunny/dry vs. shady/moist) to keep them healthy and blooming.
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Mix shrubs, perennials, vines, and some evergreens so hummingbirds have shelter and nectar in every season.
Place feeders where birds naturally move between these layers, such as near a flowering shrub edge or between two main planting areas.
Plan for blooms from spring through fall
Include early, mid‑season, and late‑blooming plants so something is always flowering when hummingbirds are present in your part of New Mexico. Plant in groups or drifts rather than isolated single plants so hummingbirds can feed efficiently and find blossoms more easily. My detailed guide The Art of Attracting Hummingbirds to Your Yard offers seasonal plant lists and layering ideas, making it easy for New Mexico birders to choose a few plants for sun and shade that will keep flowers in bloom all season long.
My special guide The Art of Attracting Hummingbirds to Your Yard will provide you with lists of hummingbird-attracting plants that bloom during each season: spring, summer and fall. It makes it easy for you to select plants that will provide continuous blooms for your hummingbirds during the time they are visiting your yard until the time they leave in the fall. You will also get advice on layering plants for a successful hummingbird garden. My guide also provides plant lists for sun and shade to make it easy to select plants for your particular growing conditions. Planting a “hummingbird-friendly garden” will never be easier!
Use feeders to supplement, not replace, flowers
Feeders provide a reliable nectar source alongside your plants, especially in early spring and late summer when wild blooms may be sparse because of drought or temperature swings. Hang them where they’re visible from your best flower beds so hummingbirds can move naturally between blossoms and sugar water.
Here is my favorite feeder and why I recommend this feeder: HummZinger Ultra 12‑oz Saucer Feeder.
If you’re tired of leaky bottle feeders and constant insect problems, this video explains why a simple saucer‑style Aspects feeder is my go‑to choice. You’ll see how the low, shallow 12‑ounce bowl helps you mix only what your hummingbirds can use before it spoils, while the built‑in ant moat, raised ports, and included Nectar‑Guard tips work together to keep ants, bees, and wasps out of the nectar. The drip‑proof design and twist‑off cover make cleaning and refilling quick and easy, so it’s realistic to keep nectar fresh even in warm weather. Made from tough, UV‑stabilized polycarbonate in the USA and backed by a true lifetime guarantee, this is a “buy it once” feeder you can count on year after year
Provide safe perches and nesting cover
Keep some shrubs, small deciduous trees, and a few dead or thin branches where hummingbirds can rest, display, and build nests. Avoid pruning

hummingbird perches
everything into bare, tight shapes; a slightly softer outline with twiggy tips gives birds more places to sit and watch over feeders and flowers.
A simple hummingbird swing or decorative perch placed a few feet from your feeder brings birds into perfect view and gives them a “guard post.” Hummingbirds may spend more time perched than many people realize, using these spots to rest, preen, digest nectar, and defend their favorite feeding areas. Once birds adopt a swing or perch, they often stay in the yard longer and make more frequent, relaxed visits.
Offer water in a way hummingbirds like
Consider adding a mister. Most people focus on feeders and flowers, but the right water feature can turn your Nebraska yard into a true
hummingbird hangout. Hummingbirds prefer shallow, moving water—fine sprays, mists, and droplets on leaves—rather than deep, still birdbaths. Add a mister, dripper, or fine spray so hummingbirds can bathe in moving droplets on leaves or in a shallow basin.
You can also install a shallow birdbath with gently sloping edges with gently sloping edges—no more than about an inch of water—gives hummingbirds a place to sip and splash at the edge.
Position water features near, but not directly over, key flower beds so birds can move easily between bathing and feeding.
Placing Water Features for Maximum Hummingbird Activity
Where you place your water features matters as much as what you choose.
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Near cover, not in the open: Position water within a few feet of shrubs, small trees, or tall perennials so hummingbirds can retreat quickly if they feel threatened.
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Partial shade: Light shade keeps water cooler and reduces evaporation while still allowing enough sun for droplets to sparkle.
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Close to nectar plants and feeders: Place water features near your hummingbird‑friendly flowers and feeders so birds can easily move between feeding and bathing.
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Safe viewing distance: Set features where you can see them from a window, patio, or garden bench, but not so close that frequent traffic scares birds away.
If you have multiple water features, spread them around to reduce territorial conflicts and give more birds access.
For a comprehensive guide on using water features, check out my article: How to Use Water Features to Attract Hummingbirds. This guide will walk you through the exact kinds of misters, drippers, and shallow baths hummingbirds prefer, how deep and how strong the water flow should be, where to place everything so birds feel safe, and how to keep it all clean without spending a lot of money.
Skip pesticides and let insects thrive
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Avoid or greatly limit pesticides, especially systemic insecticides, because hummingbirds and their chicks rely heavily on tiny insects and spiders for protein.
- A healthy, chemical‑free yard with native plants will naturally support more insects, which means more high‑quality food for hummingbirds.
My article Natural Pest Control Methods for Your Hummingbird Garden shows readers they don’t have to choose between a healthy hummingbird garden and effective pest control. It explains exactly how to prevent and manage pests using natural methods—companion planting, encouraging “good bugs,” organic sprays like garlic, pepper, and neem, physical barriers, and smart traps—so they protect their plants without poisoning hummingbirds or the insects they eat. It also gives clear, season‑by‑season checklists and safety tips (like where not to spray, how to avoid harming pollinators, and how to keep pest control away from nests and feeders), making it easy to follow even if you’re new to organic gardening. If you want fewer pests, stronger plants, and a garden that’s truly safe for hummingbirds from spring through fall, this is the article for you!
Keep Insects Away From Your Feeder
Bees, wasps, and ant trails can quickly take over a hummingbird feeder, but you don’t have to give up and bring the feeder in. My detailed guide: How to Keep Bees and Ants Away From Your Hummingbird Feeder walks you through the safest, most effective ways to keep pests out of your nectar—using ant moats, bee‑resistant feeders, smarter placement, and even “decoy” feeders that draw insects away—so the sugar water stays clean and available for hummingbirds only. If you’re tired of fighting swarms on your feeders and want a simple plan that actually works, This guide is your proven answer!
Sometimes, small insects like ants, bees and wasps won’t be the only pests raiding your hummingbird feeder. For those times when larger critters become a problem, check out my guide: Effective Tips For Pest Control At The Hummingbird Feeder.
If you’re curious how your state compares to other parts of the country, you can see arrival and departure times for every state in my main guide, “When to Feed Hummingbirds: A State‑by‑State Guide.” It’s a handy overview if you travel, have relatives in other states, or just want to understand the bigger migration picture.
FAQ for Oregon hummingbirds
What hummingbirds live in Oregon?
Anna’s, Rufous, Calliope, and Black‑chinned Hummingbirds are the main species found in Oregon, with Anna’s resident mostly west of the Cascades and the others as migrants and breeders, especially in spring and summer.
Are there hummingbirds in Oregon in winter?
Yes. Anna’s Hummingbirds now overwinter in much of western Oregon, including coastal areas and the Willamette Valley, and may visit feeders and flowering shrubs even in midwinter.
When do hummingbirds arrive in Oregon in spring?
Rufous Hummingbirds often reach western Oregon by late February or early March, and Anna’s are present all year. Calliope and Black‑chinned arrive later, mainly in April and May in eastern and higher‑elevation areas.
When do hummingbirds leave Oregon in fall?
Most Rufous, Calliope, and Black‑chinned Hummingbirds leave by August or September, heading south, while Anna’s remain in many western areas through fall and winter.
When should I put out hummingbird feeders in Oregon?
In western Oregon, you can keep feeders up all year. In more seasonal parts of the state, have feeders out by March or early April so they are ready when migrants arrive.
When should I take down hummingbird feeders in Oregon?
Where Anna’s overwinter, you do not need to take feeders down as long as you can keep the nectar fresh and unfrozen. In strictly seasonal areas, you can remove feeders after several weeks with no hummingbirds in late September or October.
What is the best nectar recipe for Oregon hummingbirds?
Use 1 part plain white sugar to 4 parts water, boiled and cooled, with no red dye or other additives.
How often should I change nectar in Oregon?
Change nectar every 1–2 days in warm weather and every 3–5 days in cooler periods, and always replace it immediately if it looks cloudy, stringy, or speckled.
Which plants attract hummingbirds in Oregon?
Red‑flowering currant, Oregon grape, western columbine, native honeysuckles, penstemons, and bleeding heart are among the best native plants for attracting hummingbirds in Oregon gardens.
Where can I learn more about Oregon hummingbirds?
Good resources include the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife, Bird Alliance of Oregon, Portland Nursery’s hummingbird plant lists, OSU Extension, and regional gardening blogs focused on Pacific Northwest hummingbirds and native plants.
Further resources for Oregon hummingbird watchers
These expert resources offer more detail on hummingbird identification, timing, and habitat in Oregon:
Oregon Department of Fish & Wildlife – Hummingbirds of Oregon
Bird Alliance of Oregon – Hummingbirds of Oregon class and species overview
Bird Alliance of Oregon – Anna’s Hummingbird (year-round in western Oregon)
Portland Nursery – Attract Hummingbirds (plants and garden design tips)
Portland Nursery – Bird Haven: natives that attract hummingbirds and other birds
Chickadee Gardens – Gardening for Hummingbirds in the Pacific Northwest
The Forest Guild – Top 10 Native Plants for Attracting Hummingbirds in the Pacific Northwest
Pollinator Partnership & Audubon – Maintaining and Improving Habitat for Hummingbirds in Oregon and Washington (PDF)
U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service – Hummingbirds of North America (includes Oregon species)
Audubon Native Plant Database – Find bird-friendly native plants by Oregon ZIP code


