The Northeastern United States is rich in native plants that provide nectar and habitat for hummingbirds, particularly the Ruby-throated Hummingbird. These plants thrive in the region’s temperate climate and are perfect for creating hummingbird-friendly gardens.
Here’s why native plants are so important.
A whole ecosystem is dependent on the native plants growing in that region. This video shows you how to fill your landscape with native flowers, bushes and trees that you don’t have to water or fertilize, and which support the wildlife and biodiversity of your area — from pollinators to birds and beyond. Featuring: serviceberry tree, joe pye, azalea, golden ragwort, rhododendron, oakleaf hydrangea, yellow and coral trumpet honeysuckle, obedient plant, hoary skullcap, American wisteria and more (zone 7).
Native Flowers
Here are 20 good native (or regionally native) hummingbird‑attracting plants suitable for the northeastern U.S.
Spring into early summer
Eastern red columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) – classic early‑spring nectar plant timed with ruby‑throat arrival.
Bleeding heart (Dicentra eximia) – native Eastern dicentra with arching stems and nectar‑bearing, pendant hearts.
Wild sweet William / meadow phlox (Phlox maculata) – moist‑soil phlox with tubular flowers hummingbirds can work easily.
Wild blue phlox (Phlox divaricata) – woodland phlox for part shade, offering early tubular blooms.
Foxglove beardtongue (Penstemon digitalis) – white tubular spikes in late spring; widely noted as a hummingbird plant.
Summer standouts
Bee balm / Oswego tea (Monarda didyma) – one of the top native hummingbird flowers in the East.
Wild bergamot (Monarda fistulosa) – lavender “frizzy” blooms; great in meadows and drier spots.
Cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis) – frequently ranked among the very best hummingbird plants.
Fire pink (Silene virginica) – bright red, narrow‑tubed blooms specialized for hummingbirds.
Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) – orange milkweed with nectar that hummers will use in sunny, drier areas.
Late‑season fuel and moist‑area plants
Great blue lobelia (Lobelia siphilitica) – late‑season blue spikes; valuable for migrating ruby‑throats.
Swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) – moist‑soil milkweed with clusters of nectar‑rich pink flowers.
Jewelweed / spotted touch‑me‑not (Impatiens capensis) – key late‑summer native, heavily used by hummingbirds.
Obedient plant (Physostegia virginiana) – late‑blooming pink/purple tubes; a good fall nectar source.
Rough blazing star (Liatris aspera) – liatris species that hummingbirds visit in open, sunny spots.
Additional native or regionally native perennials
Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) – not tubular but visited for nectar and the insects it hosts.
Garden phlox (Phlox paniculata) – tall tubular clusters that hummingbirds will probe.
Royal catchfly (Silene regia) – brilliant red tubes, excellent for hummingbirds where hardy.
Indian pink (Spigelia marilandica) – Eastern native with red‑and‑yellow tubes; outstanding hummingbird plant in suitable zones.
Fringeleaf wild petunia (Ruellia humilis) – low, drought‑tolerant native with purple trumpet‑shaped blooms.
Native Shrubs
Here’s a general list of native hummingbird‑attracting shrubs suitable for most of the northeastern United States (roughly USDA Zones 4–6).
Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis) – Moist‑soil shrub with round white “powder‑puff” flower balls in summer that draw many pollinators, including hummingbirds.
New Jersey tea (Ceanothus americanus) – Low, sun‑loving shrub; dense white flower clusters in early summer provide nectar and lots of small insects.
Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) – Large shrub with wide white flower clusters rich in insects and nectar, plus heavy summer fruit for wildlife.
Highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum) – Spring urn‑shaped white flowers that offer nectar and insects, followed by berries for birds and people.
Witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) – Fall‑blooming shrub/small tree with spidery yellow flowers that extend nectar availability late in the year.
Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius) – Tough shrub with clusters of small white or pinkish flowers that support insects and provide good cover and perches.
Native azaleas / deciduous rhododendrons (such as Rhododendron viscosum, R. periclymenoides, R. canadense) – Tubular, often fragrant blooms in spring–early summer that hummingbirds readily use.
Serviceberry / shadbush (Amelanchier species) – Early white blossoms that support insects and provide structure, perches, and fruit in late spring.
Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa, A. arbutifolia) – White spring flowers and abundant fruit; good insect support and dense cover in a hummingbird garden.
American hazelnut (Corylus americana) – Catkins and foliage support insects, and the shrub adds multi‑stem structure and shelter near hummingbird flower beds.
Suggestion: gardeners can pair several of these shrubs with native flowering perennials (like bee balm, cardinal flower, and columbine) to create layered, season‑long hummingbird habitat across the Northeast.
Native Vines
Here’s a concise, Northeast‑friendly list of native (or regionally native) hummingbird‑attracting vines.
Trumpet honeysuckle / coral honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) – Native to the eastern U.S.; produces long, coral‑red tubular flowers from late spring through summer that are classic hummingbird magnets.
Trumpet vine / trumpet creeper (Campsis radicans) – Vigorous woody vine with large orange‑red trumpet‑shaped flowers in summer that hummingbirds flock to. (Best for bigger spaces or wild edges because it spreads strongly.)
Crossvine (Bignonia capreolata) – Semi‑evergreen vine with yellow‑orange to red tubular flowers in late spring; widely recommended as a native hummingbird vine in the East.
American wisteria (Wisteria frutescens) – Native wisteria with fragrant purple flower clusters; less aggressive than Asian wisterias and visited by hummingbirds where hardy.
Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) – Grown mainly for foliage and berries, but supports many insects and offers cover and perches around hummingbird flower beds.
Note: trumpet honeysuckle is the safest, most “backyard‑friendly” hummingbird vine, and trumpet vine and crossvine need sturdy supports and room to roam.
For hummingbird vines like trumpet honeysuckle, trumpet vine, and crossvine, the key is strong, vertical supports with something thin for the stems to grab.
Best types of supports
Heavy trellis or panel on a wall or fence
Use a sturdy wood or metal trellis, lattice, or welded‑wire panel securely fastened to posts, a fence, or a wall.
This works well for trumpet honeysuckle and crossvine; they weave through the slats or wire and can be lightly tied at first.
Pergola, arbor, or arch
Ideal for large, vigorous vines like trumpet vine or crossvine that can reach 20–30 feet and get heavy with age.
Use 4×4 or larger posts and strong crossbeams so the structure can handle weight and wind over many years.
Free‑standing post with crossbar (“T‑post trellis”)
A single 4×4 post with a short crossbar at the top, plus eye‑screws and wire, makes a compact support that shows off a coral honeysuckle vine without taking much space.
Good for smaller yards or to place near hummingbird feeders.
What vines need from the support
Strength and depth: posts should be set at least 2 feet into the ground in concrete or tamped gravel so they do not lean as the woody vine thickens.
Climbing “rungs”: add horizontal wires, garden netting, or thin battens every 8–12 inches so young stems have something to twine around; many honeysuckles prefer thin supports like wire or string over big, flat boards.
Access and containment: avoid letting trumpet vine climb trees, siding, or gutters, since its aerial roots and suckers can damage structures and spread aggressively; give it its own strong frame instead.
Simple setup example
Drive two 4×4 posts about 6–8 feet apart, 2+ feet deep, and connect them at the top with a 2×4 crosspiece.
Stretch galvanized wire or cattle‑panel between the posts to form a grid, then plant coral honeysuckle or crossvine at the base and loosely tie new shoots to the lower wires until they climb on their own.
This kind of structure is strong enough for vigorous native vines, lets flowers hang where hummingbirds can easily reach them, and keeps the vine from taking over nearby trees or buildings.
Plant them in sunny, weed‑free beds, match each species to its preferred soil and moisture, and group plants in patches so hummingbirds can feed efficiently.
When to plant in the Northeast
For potted perennials like bee balm, wild bergamot, great blue lobelia, butterfly weed, obedient plant, fire pink, foxglove beardtongue, cardinal flower, and eastern red columbine, the best times are spring (after the soil is workable) or late summer–early fall, about 6 weeks before your first frost. In the Northeast, fall planting usually runs from late August to mid‑October; spring planting can begin once the ground has thawed and is not waterlogged. Annual jewelweed is usually easiest from seed scattered on bare soil in fall or very early spring so it can naturally stratify.
Site prep and spacing
Choose mostly full‑sun spots for bee balm, wild bergamot, butterfly weed, obedient plant, foxglove beardtongue, and fire pink; use part‑shade to moist areas for cardinal flower, great blue lobelia, jewelweed, and columbine. Remove grass and weeds thoroughly, then lightly loosen the top few inches of soil; for natives, you usually do not need to add lots of compost or fertilizer. For a hummingbird bed, space most perennials about 12–24 inches apart and plant at least 5–8 of each species together so they form visible, nectar‑rich clumps.
How to set each plant
Dig a hole just wide enough for the root ball and plant so the crown (where stems meet roots) is at or slightly above soil level, then firm soil and water deeply. Keep new plants consistently moist for the first season, especially moisture‑lovers like cardinal flower, great blue lobelia, jewelweed, and obedient plant; butterfly weed and wild bergamot should not sit in soggy soil once established. Mulch lightly (1–2 inches) with shredded leaves or bark to hold moisture and suppress weeds, but keep mulch away from the plant crowns.
Making it hummingbird‑friendly
Aim for continuous bloom: columbine and foxglove beardtongue in spring; bee balm, wild bergamot, butterfly weed, fire pink, and jewelweed in summer; great blue lobelia and obedient plant into late summer and early fall. Avoid pesticides, since hummingbirds also eat small insects from these plants, and add a small water source plus a few perches (small trees, brushy edges) near your flower patches.
Creating a Shade Garden for Hummingbirds: A Complete Guide
If you are interested in a hummingbird shade garden, click on the link above.
Natural Pest Control Methods for Your Hummingbird Garden
Creating a thriving hummingbird garden is a rewarding experience. However, maintaining it while keeping pests at bay can be challenging. Fortunately, there are numerous natural pest control methods that can protect your garden’s delicate ecosystem. Click the link above to find out how to naturally control pests in your hummingbird garden.
